Walking the Cumbria Way: A Practical Guide from Ulverston to Carlisle
The Cumbria Way crosses the Lake District on foot in less than a week, and it does it the old-fashioned way: by valleys, lakeshores and passes rather than summits. That makes it one of the most rewarding first long-distance walks in Britain, but it's easy to underestimate. This guide covers what the walk is really like day to day, the highlights worth slowing down for, and how to plan it without the common mistakes.
Is the Cumbria Way right for you?
If you can walk around 15 miles a day with 500–800 m of climbing, several days in a row, you can walk the Cumbria Way. There is no scrambling and only one real summit, High Pike, which is a rounded grassy fell rather than a rocky peak. What makes it harder than the numbers suggest is the cumulative effect: long days on uneven ground, some boggy moorland, and two stages where you are a long way from a road.
It suits walkers who want to see the Lakes properly without needing mountain experience, and it's ideal if you don't have a car. Ulverston and Carlisle both have railway stations, and the villages in between are linked by buses, so you can walk the whole route in one go or in sections over several trips.
What each day actually feels like
The five stages are similar in length but very different in character, and the hardest day comes late in the walk, when legs are already tired.
- Stage 1, Ulverston to Coniston (about 615 m of ascent): a longer day than it looks. The first half crosses farmland with many stiles and faint field paths, so navigation is slower than you'd expect. It gets easier once you reach Coniston Water.
- Stage 2, Coniston to Great Langdale (about 550 m): the shortest and gentlest day, with time to linger at Tarn Hows and the waterfalls. A good day for a late start or a pub lunch in Elterwater.
- Stage 3, Great Langdale to Keswick (about 650 m): the classic mountain day over Stake Pass. The climb is steady, but the descent down Langstrath is long and rough, and it's still a lakeshore walk to Keswick after that. Splitting it at Rosthwaite makes a relaxed 6-day walk.
- Stage 4, Keswick to Caldbeck (about 820 m): the toughest and most remote stage. There's the most ascent, the highest point, and no shops, pubs or cafés until Caldbeck. Treat it as a proper hill day.
- Stage 5, Caldbeck to Carlisle (about 190 m): a flat, easy riverside finish along the Caldew, and a chance to enjoy the walk winding down into the city.
Highlights not to miss
Most of the Cumbria Way's best moments are right on the line of the route, but a few reward a short pause or detour:
- Beacon Tarn on Stage 1, a quiet upland tarn and the first real taste of Lakeland.
- Tarn Hows, Colwith Force and Skelwith Force on Stage 2, three classic Lake District views in one easy morning.
- Mickleden and the Langdale Pikes at the start of Stage 3, followed by the wild, little-visited valley of Langstrath.
- Castle Crag and Derwent Water in Borrowdale; the short climb up Castle Crag is a worthwhile side trip if you have the legs.
- Skiddaw House, one of the most remote buildings in the Lake District, and the long views from High Pike across the Solway Firth to Scotland.
- Caldbeck, a pretty village whose churchyard holds the grave of the huntsman John Peel, remembered in the song D'ye ken John Peel.
- Carlisle Castle and Cathedral, a fitting finish in England's border city.
How to plan the Cumbria Way, step by step
- Choose your itinerary. Five days suits most fit walkers; six days, with a night at Rosthwaite, gives a gentler pace and more time in Borrowdale. Our itineraries page has 4 to 7-day plans with measured distances.
- Book the pinch points first. Great Langdale, Borrowdale and Caldbeck have few beds and fill up early, especially from May to September. Book those, then fit the rest around them. See our accommodation guide.
- Decide on baggage transfer. Carrying only a day pack makes the long stages far more enjoyable, and several companies move bags between overnight stops on the route.
- Book your trains. Advance fares to Ulverston and home from Carlisle are usually much cheaper than buying on the day.
- Load the route. Download the free Cumbria Way GPX files to your phone or GPS before you go, as signal is patchy in Langstrath and Skiddaw Forest, and carry the OS maps as backup.
- Check the mountain forecast. Look at the MWIS or Met Office mountain forecast before Stages 3 and 4, and have a plan for sitting out a bad day.
What to pack
Pack as you would for a day on the fells, every day: waterproof jacket and trousers, warm layers, comfortable broken-in boots, a hat and gloves outside midsummer, a first-aid kit, and enough food and water for a full day on Stage 4. Add a map, compass and charged phone or GPS with the route loaded, plus a power bank. Midge repellent is useful in the valleys in summer. Our kit and safety guide has a full checklist for Cumbrian long-distance walks.
Camping, hostels and walking with a dog
You can walk the Cumbria Way on a budget. There are campsites along the route, including at Coniston, Great Langdale, Borrowdale and Keswick, and hostels in several of the overnight stops. Wild camping in the Lake District isn't legally allowed without the landowner's permission, so plan on using campsites unless you have it.
The route is dog-friendly, but much of it crosses farmland with sheep and cattle. Keep your dog on a lead around livestock, especially during lambing in spring, and check that your accommodation takes dogs before you book. If cattle are protective, don't get between cows and calves, and let go of the lead if you are chased.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Trusting the waymarks. Many have disappeared since the route was signed in 2007. Use the GPX and a map.
- Treating Stage 1 as a warm-up. Fiddly field paths make it slower than its distance suggests. Start early.
- Setting off on Stage 4 without supplies. There's nowhere to buy food or drink between Keswick and Caldbeck.
- Pushing on over High Pike in bad weather. The low-level alternative past Whitewater Dash is boggy and unsatisfactory. It's better to wait, or use the Mosedale road as an escape.
- Booking Great Langdale last. It's the stop most likely to be full, so book it first.
Ready to go? Start with the Stage 1 guide, grab the free GPX, and read the FAQs below for quick answers on distance, direction and maps.